2006 Domaine Ponsot, Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru, Cuvee des Alouettes 750ml

WA91

From Ponsot's monopole Clos des Mont Luisants (virtually surrounded by grand crus, and which, he opines, represents as steep a slope as exists in the Cote de Nuits), the 2006 Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Cuvee des Alouettes exhibits a healthy, deep color; a nose of well-hung game, cassis, blackberry, and dark chocolate; a creamy richness rare in this vintage; and a low-toned finish in which the wine's abundance of tannins becomes evident as a fine, subtly-abrasive though relatively well fruit-covered spread. The more this opened to the air, though, the more game-like notes dominated, so one should probably treat that as an omen for the wine's future rather than a temporary manifestation of reduction which would in any case be rare at Ponsot where the wines are not sulfured.